The smoke drifting from the old style chimney leads you to the definition of a landmark: an exposed brick building along Federal Highway, unattached to any strip mall. Tom Jenkins holds about 40 people, who are more than happy to sit elbow to elbow for St. Louis-style ribs slow-cooked in a 6-by-10-foot pit, enhanced by a sweet sauce.

Now that is what some good barbecue. If you ever down in that area, you really should check it out.

(Tom Jenkins, 1236 S. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale; 954-522-5046)

[Tom Jenkins bbq]